Why We Love This Coffee

In addition to the beautiful flavor profile and economic sustenance that these high-elevation coffees in Ethiopia provide, the coffee itself is becoming more and more of an important crop to protect the natural ecosystem and agricultural heritage of this area, as environmentally damaging (high water consumption) crops such as khat and eucalyptus are being grown more and more. As we all know, growing coffee is becoming (and will continue to become) more and more difficult with climate change, so preserving these natural ecosystems where coffee is native is all the more important. Read on for more details from our importer, Red Fox.

From Our Importer

Ethiopia’s Sidamo region is one of the most renowned coffee-producing areas in the world. Like the rest of the country, it is divided into several woredas (districts), and kebeles (communities), each with washing stations that reflect the unique terroir of their surroundings. One such woreda is Bensa, where the Shentawane kebele is located.

To reach Bensa, the journey begins with a flight to Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, followed by a local flight to Hawassa. From there, a three-hour drive leads to Bensa and the central washing station in Shentawane, known as Ayla.

The Ayla washing station is supplied by 725 farmers. Due to the rugged terrain, travel time to the station is typically about an hour, whether producers walk and transport coffee by mule or travel by truck.

Coffee is the main source of income for producers in Shentawane, who cultivate it on small farms ranging from 0.1 to 2 hectares. They usually intercrop with false banana trees to provide shade. Fertilization is rare in the area, as the soil is naturally fertile.

At the Ayla washing station, the process begins with cherry selection. Cherries are immersed in water tanks to remove floaters. After sorting, they are depulped and fermented for 100 hours. Once fermentation is complete, the parchment is spread on raised African beds and dried under a parabolic shade net for 15 days. This coffee is part of an improved process project that includes a five-day fermentation period with water changed every 24 hours. Fermentation proceeds slowly at ambient temperatures of 18.5 to 20.5 degrees Celsius.

Because many farms are remote, families often lack access to clean water, electricity, and schools. Children from the most distant farms tend to begin working at a young age. Educational opportunities are limited, and migrating to cities is not an attractive option due to the large education gaps between rural areas and urban centers. As a result, many young people stay on their parents' farms or purchase nearby land to continue farming coffee.

However, the most pressing issue in the area is not the lack of opportunity but the rise in cultivation of khat and eucalyptus. These crops are environmentally damaging due to their high water consumption, which depletes the water table. In contrast, coffee is native to Ethiopia’s forests and can help protect the ecosystem.

Despite these challenges, many producers in Shentawane remain committed to coffee and strive to preserve their agricultural heritage. Those who continue in coffee production are supported by enthusiastic buyers at Red Fox. This market access plays a vital role in sustaining coffee farming in Shentawane and may be one of the few forces slowing the expansion of khat and eucalyptus cultivation in the region.